In this post, I show you how I prepare the 👍 best and safest ABS juice/slurry solution for ABS 3D Printing on glass heated bed.
Basically, it is a mixture of wood glue and water which I apply a very thin layer onto the heat bed glass plate. This has helped me great deal with ABS 3D printing without part lifting up from the glass plate. ❤️
This cheapest solution of “ABS juice” mixture which can last you years to come is safe to use when heated compared to any other solution that you found on YouTube videos such as hair spay, acetone and ABS craps (ABS slurry) mixture. Hair spay will make your head spin and nausea because when heated it releases toxic fume, ABS slurry with acetone has terrible smell if you want to convert your apartment into nail spa. Also, imagine how to clean that stuff off. Besides, if you dump acetone into your drain you can kiss your ABS plumbing good bye with big repair bill. I advice not to use ABS slurry with acetone. Neither do I advice using hair spay.
If you value your health , please use this safe wood glue mixture with water solution to make your own DIY ABS juice for your ABS 3D printing needs. Cleaning is with soap and water to remove that thin layer of wood glue on the glass plate. I have only been 3D printing with ABS for the past 6 years and I know 100% that this is the best and cheapest solution for ABS 3D printing. ABS printing using 3D printer is not that hard, you just need a good heat bed temperature of 110°C and you’re golden.
In this video, I show you how to do it yourself (DIY) drilling a pc case mod for motherboard standoffs by hand using readily available basic tools.
You will need a small power tool hand drill, #2 centre drill, #40 (2.5mm) drill bit, M3x0.5 metric tap tap some drill bit that snugly fit motherboard PCB hole size for marking and a little bit of elbow grease. 🙂
This is how I precision drill holes for standoffs by hand. Anyone can make holes in PC case but it takes skills to precision drill a hole that has high positional tolerance such as mounting holes for motherboard standoffs.
Hope this is useful info for your future case mod.
After 5 months of hard work on this 3D printer project, this is my final result. An all aluminum frame 3D printer. I designed this 3D printer model in Solidworks based on some other 3d printers I found online (ie Aluminatus TrinityOne, MendelMAX v2, Lulzbot TAZ, etc….) and then CNC machine myself most of the parts you see in this video.
I will list primary parts of the part I use in this 3D printer project and some of my comments/review about it.
NEMA 17 Stepper motors from StepperOnline – excellent customer service, will exchange bad motor if you run into one without question.
SeeMeCNC EZStruder Cold End – used to be good quality and sturdy but not anymore. I would not buy another one from them. Holes are not lined up with stepper motor holes unless you drill it bigger. Material used is not that great. So soft and flexible.
Gadget3D electronic parts which include RAMPS 1.4, stepper driver and Arduino Mega board, etc… and all the wires for you to connect – excellent customer service from China and fast shipping.
8020 Inc aluminum extrudions profile – excellent stuff to make 3D Printer with or any other machine for that matter.
Maker’s Tool Works TR10x2 lead screw and nuts – I had to ditch this and replace with M6x1 stainless steel threaded rod which i believe is more reliable. I might use these lead screw for other project like DIY CNC mill or CNC lathe.
Gates PowerGrip GT2 belt from 3D Maker World – excellent product.
E3D v5 Hotend Extruder – For the look E3D looks better than a J-Head Mk V-BV but in terms of PLA printing J-Head hotend leads by far.